Good Fortune at Hraunfosser

The Hraunfosser, or the lava field falls, are really worth the visit, even in winter. Even in the snow! Sure, you can lose important stuff in the snow, because you have to negotiate snacks, camera, wallet, hat, gloves, snow, and slippery paths. Here I am after running across the bridge looking for likely nice people […]

The Fun Winter Roads of Iceland

Fun for all! This is the kind of road that keeps the economy going by helping tourists to rip out the undercarriage of their rental car. This is not, really, a road. It is tourist made, because that’s fun. Gerðaberg Still, the one below, the old road to the church at Gerðaberg, although more traditionally Icelandic […]

The Dwarf Castle of Skardsvik

We went to Seyðisfjörður to visit the dwarf church, one of our favourite places in Iceland, but sadly it is no longer accessible except by boat. However, we had the good fortune to walk down to the beach at Skardsvik, on the complete other side of the country, and there was a whole dwarf fortress. […]

Global English in Iceland

Here is an English posted by a non-native English speaker for other non-native English speakers.  It marginally makes sense. Yes, Images Have a Life of Their Own That night image, is that Iceland? With a spruce and poplar forest along a still waterway? Have you seen that anywhere in Iceland? Fortunately, the ability to communicate […]

A Forest in the Hills: The Icelandic Version

Vatnsdalarhólar The hills are famous as being too many to count. The forests, well, that is another matter. And the sheep, whew. They were out the other day, waiting to be taken to the high country. Sheep everywhere! Gunnar Gunnarson’s dream was to transform his novels about Icelandic country people into a farm employing Icelandic […]

Haunting Iceland

This image from North Iceland haunts me. This was once a prosperous farm, as the driftwood fence shows. In a country without wood, to have rights to pick up Siberian wood from the beach was enough to make a farm pay. Now they’re inexpensive  replacements  for more expensive metal posts, and not a cash item. […]

When You’re on the Road to Nowhere, Get Off

Then you’ll be somewhere. Most visitors to Iceland land at Keflavik Airport, just north of this beautiful landscape, and then race northwest to Reykjavik, missing out on the opportunity to hear the land speak. The Icelanders have arranged it this way. Have you ever wondered why? Reykjanes is calling!

Isolation, Poverty and Wealth in Remote Iceland

It’s beautiful on Snaefellsnes, isn’t it, when the gales blow in and the light pulls the mountains out of another world at year’s end. And the glacier, Snaefellsjökull, is very fine when hurricane gusts lift off its fog and the sun shines from within the ice, lighting up the sea mist, and you have to […]

Magical Icelandic Light

In mid-November, there is no break between sunrise and sunset, just a switch in the spectrum. Here’s the pink morning light at Hafnarskógar, looking up to Hafnarfell. As you can see, when you live in such light, you become inspired. And the moon shines all day. Here it is around 2 pm, looking out Rauðanes […]