Cheap Eats in Iceland

The snow’s falling, the budget is tight, you’re sitting in your rental car trying to defrost two hours from a cafe, and it’s lunch time. What to do? May I suggest …

Icelandic flatbread, a Danish twisted donut, herring-beet-apple salad, skyr (fresh-cheese-yoghurt with zero fat and 17g of protein — I like pear or blueberry the best, but there are a lot of other flavours, too), and the one you love. Cost? About a third of a cup of tea and 10% of a bowl of soup in Reykjavik. At this rate, you might be able to afford dinner! And by the time you’re done, you might be able to see out!

Good Fortune at Hraunfosser

The Hraunfosser, or the lava field falls, are really worth the visit, even in winter.

Even in the snow!

Sure, you can lose important stuff in the snow, because you have to negotiate snacks, camera, wallet, hat, gloves, snow, and slippery paths. Here I am after running across the bridge looking for likely nice people and finding them. Look how she takes charge. He should keep her close, I think. (It was my wife who found the wallet and sent me on my sprint across the icy bridge with no people in sight.)

This Russian-French (?) couple was happy to get his passport and all his money back. He didn’t even know he’d lost it when he put on his gloves back before the bridge.

Note how I keep my stuff in a little daypack now. Can you tell it’s a been-there-done-that situation?

Just another day in Iceland! I hope they’re doing well. Meanwhile, back to the light. What there is of it!

Barnafoss

Watch your step! (And do get a daypack. Really.)

 

Paradise Falls: Little Jewel of the Whale Fjord

When you turn off onto Road 5001 at the head of the Havalfjörður to visit the high waterfall Glymur, make note of the gravel parking area to your left. When you come back soggy and disappointed that Glymur is unattainable because of bad weather and high water and muck, why not stop and hike a hundred metres up the stream to Paradisarfoss? She’s a pretty little one, with a fine little forest of wild birches. You need never be disappointed in Iceland.

By Icelandic standards, that’s a very good trail there.

Well worth the trip! And no, this was not sunset. And, yes, the sky was that pink. It was just November 5, that’s all, when a stroll through the rain is like a walk through laughter.

The Magic of an Icelandic Dawn

It is best to leave the city in the dark and strike east. If you time it right, you’ll be right on time. Be right on time. You can sleep later. Now is not the time for sleep.

Heiðarbærjarhólmi

There is a special hour on Þingvallavatn. Right after darkness, it is light. Then the light extinguishes and the world begins without illusion: blue.

The soul rises early. Everything that follows is just light.