The south of Iceland is blowing away, such as this pasture in the old sheepfold at Kirkjubær.
One cannot return to the past.
Erosion
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Dump Your Unwanted Europe Here
The Icelanders are very clever. They put up a picnic site on top of the hill above Seyðisfjörður, to allow travellers to get their bearings after the steep climb out of the fjord and before the steep drop down into Egilsstaðir. That’s the kind part. The clever part is the picnic sign, as you can see.
See that? Travellers coming off the ferry from Europe get a chance to use up all their stickers at once, in one spot, and then that’s that. Done.
This is the height of summer. You might not want to linger long up here.
Happy Times in Vestdalseyri
OK, ya, the people are all gone. It’s just ruins now.
But the houses aren’t empty. Here are some sheep who have moved in. Lords of the manor at last!
Victory comes to the patient.
The Alfaborg and Einstein: an East Icelandic Tale
For the capital city of the queen of the elves in downtown Bakkagerði, it’s a bit of a lump. Still, humans look up to it.
Meanwhile, elves look down.
This change in perspective seems to be species specific. Here’s a view of another one of the elf hills in the fjord.
Same rule applies. Humans look up. Elves look down. And yet, if you climb the Alfaborg, you’ll meet many images of elves cast by your mind and stone at the same time, so you can’t really tell the difference. Here’s one.
Not really looking down or up at the one-to-one level. I think this is called the theory of relativity, invented by Icelanders long before Einstein got to it.
The Best Waterfall in Iceland
It used to be possible to walk up to these falls near Kirkjubærjarklaustur, but it has been closed off due to disrespect, especially illegal camping. You can still spot its trolls from a distance, though, if you have a good eye. Do pay your respects with a nod, at least, and for Troll’s sakes, respect those farms and their stock. The place should be a UNESCO site.
Imagine going up to this troll, through all these stone bones and heads, and collecting water for the farmhouse at its foot. It was here that I learned that trolls keep humans because humans keep sheep and trolls really like sheep. A humbling and always slightly uncertain relationship.
Mix-and-Match Sheep: It’s an Icelandic Thing
This ewe and her lamb appear to have a mixed breed thing going on.
This is deliberate. The best mother is given a lamb or two to care for, even if she has lost hers, and even if she doesn’t have one at all. Good mothering has sure paid off for this lamb. Looking well cared for and plump!
Elf and Magical Fox Facing Off in East Iceland
The elf, on the left, is facing it down as it approaches, very giant-sized, from the right.
For humans, it’s in slo-mo, but for elves? Probably wayyyy too fast.
Iceland’s Elves Are Scarcely Hiding at Midsummer
It’s one of the things about the height of summer in Iceland: everything comes alive. Lichens give elvish faces to every rock, water moves more mysteriously, and the faces that peer from nearly every rock are more intense. You should have no difficulty spotting many faces in the rocks round this little waterfall on the Stapavík Trail.
Thing is, some of them are more intense than others and hit somewhere very deep inside one’s spirit.
See that yet? maybe? Maybe not? Let’s look again, then:
The elves are never far.
Spot the Ptarmigan
A fun Icelandic game.
Stapavík Trail on the Selfljot
It Might Rain Cats and Dogs But it Shines Ogres
Ogres are a bit like weather. When the sun shines, you see them. “Ah, the ogre is here,” you say.
When the sun doesn’t shine on them, you don’t see them. Then you say, “there’s no ogre.” Either way, though, just imagine getting up every day and checking the ogre weather!
A Farm in Iceland 