Author Archives: Harold Rhenisch

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About Harold Rhenisch

www.haroldrhenisch.com

Beautiful Raufarhöfn

This graveyard in a part of Iceland rarely visited fills me with joy. The church, like so many, is an imported thing, steeped in nationalism, colonialism and paternity, but the graveyard, ah, that is 1100 years living all at once.

And in a way that has no words, at least not yet. To date, it exceeds the capacity of the literary writers of Reykjavik, far to the southwest, but I like to think that some kid, alone here just below the Arctic Circle, is living the moments right now that in a decade or two will give it voice. What a day to look forward to!

 

The Right Gifts to Leave in a Dwarf’s Church

So, you’ve made it through the fog …

… and across the bridge …

… and the other bridge …

…carefully! …

… to the Troll Church in Seyðisfjörður…

… with its skylight and its steeple …

… but what do you leave for the dwarves? You want to be a good guest, right? Well, a needle and some wool, maybe?

A flower? Heather is a good choice.

And the blue of the sky and the sea and the white of the waves.

And shiny things. 1 kronur coins with their flashing codfish are perfect. Dwarves love shiny things.

Might as well admire the view, eh.

And the human church next door. Not so well-built, of course. Not so experienced with stone work. Poor things.  Great with plastic, though!

And then back. What else? Easy does it.

And to town.

And, yes, the dwarves have come along. The Icelanders will call it “nature,” because they’re polite and they know that the rest of us like that stuff. They know better. They even call it a “town”…


… when it is really, two. Such good manners! Such sneakiness!

Lunch in Iceland? It Doesn’t Have to Break the Bank

So, lunch. That would be nice. Why not the Apotek in Reykjavik?Highly rated. A rather desolate environment, sure…

… but you came here for desolate, right? The bracing subarctic! And there is a fine menu. Why, the hamburger is only about CAD$40. Add a Gull, of course, and it’ll be around $55.

What? That was a whole day’s food budget? Not to worry. There are other options. The road to Seyðisfjörður, for example, or just off to the side, in case there’s a car. Serving travellers for 1100 years.

Neðri Uðafoss

The menu is simple.

Bilberries and Rainwater

Add a Skyr for CAD$2.00…


15 grams of protein!

It even comes with a clever little Chinese folding spoon, which you can keep as a souvenir! And you can wander while you eat.


Efri Selfoss

Bring a coat, though. It’s Iceland! Oh, and dessert is the same as lunch.

But that’s OK, right?

 

The Best Way to Approach the Sea

Sideways, so sly?

Or head on, so bold?

With a house for company?

With a fence for (ha ha) protection?

Or with a sandbar to still that water down until it turns to swans?

In snow?

In the midnight sun?

From halfway down a ridiculous cliff called, for some reason, a road?

From the land of the dead at the bottom of the cliff?

Among muck-raking sheep?

From the city?

From a place on no map?

From a boat?

From a coal mine?

With a lighthouse?

Through a gate while tipping over in the wind (a common affliction)?

On a lazy evening when horses come to visit and refuse to eat your apples because they’ve never encountered such a strange thing before?

At the end of the road?

Without a road at all?

When the sea turns to silver?

When silver turns to the sea?

When the sky rains gold?

Over the mouth of a river?

Or when the sea flows into a river’s mouth and speaks of deep mystery?

These are the mysteries of people who live after the landing that makes firm ground out of waves that, wouldn’t you know, is not so firm after all. Yeah, best, maybe to just wade out with the trolls.

Waiting for whatever comes!