What a nice family!
Mom, Dad and the Kid Hanging Out at Litli-Drangur
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Category Archives: Huldúfolk
The Village of Waterfalls on the Vestdalsá
Not only is there a canyon of gentle waterfalls in a musical pattern, but they are inhabited, which is always a bonus.
After close to 20,000 kilometres in Iceland, this is one of the most compelling of all places, and what an inspiration.
Been to the Easter Cave Yet?
It’s here the light first strikes Iceland on Easter Morning.
That’s the day that seals turn into humans. Right here.
It’s Not the Size that Matters
Who cares if the forest is only 40 centimetres high.
Nothing beats an Icelandic willow forest for beauty and delight. Oh, the birches and the rowans have their mysteries and dreams, but the willows are just pools of delight making the world a better place. I hope you get to sit down beside one some day and chat!
Snæfellsjökull Tourism as the Mountain Sees It
Iceland’s great mountain is not on the Ring Road, which is an arrangement of highways across the width and breadth of the main chunks of Iceland that allow tourists to flow through the country on “road trips” and, with luck, meet only professional tourism operators. This allows the country to get along with things and to pay for its roads. When you’re off the Ring Road, though, you have to be clever. The people of Snæfellsnes have hit on a couple of solid ideas. They won’t tell people that the name of the town that hosts their tourism marketing staff, Hellissandur, means The Sandbar from Hell, and they promote the daylights out of the idea of day trips from Reykjavik to view the sites. No overnight stays necessary. Clever.
Welcome to the Centre of the Earth
It makes a lot of sense. If people come for longer, they won’t leave, and if they don’t leave, they won’t need a tour bus, and if they don’t need a tour bus, what then? These are the big questions. The mountain and its snow spirits (I mean, look at them up there!) do not need to answer. It is an inspiring purity of presence.
What Trolls are Smoking in the West Fjords
Well, now we know what happened to all the hiking trail markers in Iceland.
East Iceland’s Evil Waterfall
I’ve driven past these falls above the Selfljót many times. They give me a shiver every time.
Sellækurfoss
And yet I always look. I hope it’s just because it’s good to know where your enemies are. I hope I haven’t been caught in its spell.
The Alfaborg and Einstein: an East Icelandic Tale
For the capital city of the queen of the elves in downtown Bakkagerði, it’s a bit of a lump. Still, humans look up to it.
Meanwhile, elves look down.
This change in perspective seems to be species specific. Here’s a view of another one of the elf hills in the fjord.
Same rule applies. Humans look up. Elves look down. And yet, if you climb the Alfaborg, you’ll meet many images of elves cast by your mind and stone at the same time, so you can’t really tell the difference. Here’s one.
Not really looking down or up at the one-to-one level. I think this is called the theory of relativity, invented by Icelanders long before Einstein got to it.
The Best Waterfall in Iceland
It used to be possible to walk up to these falls near Kirkjubærjarklaustur, but it has been closed off due to disrespect, especially illegal camping. You can still spot its trolls from a distance, though, if you have a good eye. Do pay your respects with a nod, at least, and for Troll’s sakes, respect those farms and their stock. The place should be a UNESCO site.
Imagine going up to this troll, through all these stone bones and heads, and collecting water for the farmhouse at its foot. It was here that I learned that trolls keep humans because humans keep sheep and trolls really like sheep. A humbling and always slightly uncertain relationship.
Elf and Magical Fox Facing Off in East Iceland
The elf, on the left, is facing it down as it approaches, very giant-sized, from the right.
For humans, it’s in slo-mo, but for elves? Probably wayyyy too fast.
A Farm in Iceland 