Tag Archives: Iceland

Camping and Poverty in Iceland

Private life in Iceland is often an improvisation. Many people are just camping. p1400630

Reykjavik, Downtown

This misfit between built environments and how people fit into them is profound and nearly universal. It looks like poverty. It probably feels like it. It’s probably a profound resistance, the very one that Gunnar, in a more rural Iceland, called wealth.

The Thing About Being an Island

On an island there is only the sea and an eye in the midst of it. Things wash up on the eye. They are magical emblems of a distant world. It doesn’t matter what they are, their magic haunts you. Purses….pursereligions…maria

… cheap junk from China.p1330196

It is all the same. By displaying it, you become part of the world, through display. Each piece is an amulet that calls forth the notion of travel, which, because you are an island, you can only achieve by standing still.

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Soon, you dress yourself in these amulets, and the style with which you disguise yourself, just enough so you aren’t completely hidden, becomes your ‘self’. In this way you are revealed, as if you are naked.p1330206

You are. Deep down, you are an island, where the idea of human occupation is just another piece of driftwood washed up on your skin, and everything you do will not erase the foreignness of the world, not even 1100 years of improvisation.

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It becomes your voice, as you drag whatever home you can, thinking, “Ya, I bet I can find a use for that someday…”

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or “Hmmm, I could wear that.” p1030097

One can make combinations, for example. p1050949

Really, anything goes because everything is equal. Everything comes from the world.This is an island. It is not the world. It is a place of finding land, and, slowly, being found by it.

mermaid

And then being the land on which others land.

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Here, every window is the sea.

Would You Make It As An Icelander

Would you be able to support a family by raising sheep on a lava field like this?
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Or would a farm on the cliff, below a waterfall blown upwards by hurricane do the trick? p1380745

Those are your choices. Not only that, but your choices view, and are viewed by, the desperate gambles of others. Try that.

 

Gunnar’s Grave

When Gunnar was a boy at ValÞfjösstaður Farm, he was given a walnut for Christmas: one walnut. It was an unimaginable gift of wealth. He ate the nut, and with the one half intact shell, he made a boat and set into the stream, the ValÞfjösstaðurá, that flowed off the Ogre’s Stairway above the farm, and chased along beside as it went. Out of that walnut, he dreamed of ships crossing the sea, and of leaving isolation to be a full citizen of the greater world. He did, and then he came home, and then he went to Reykjavik. He’s buried now on Viðey, the holy island in Old Reykjavik Harbour. I tried to bring him a stone from home four years ago, but it was late in the year and the ferry wasn’t running. I promised to come back. I did, just last fall. I brought him a gift from across the sea.skald

Do you see the walnut shell there, for his travels? Fare well, dear Gunnar, on whatever seas bear you.