Category Archives: Land

A Winter Troll Coming Down from the Mountains

Here’s one of the Trolls of Harnarfjall, on its annual pilgrimage to feed on the sea.

Slathering at the mouth in a field of old bones, as trolls will. There’s a whole herd of then where the foot of this fell turns into the flat of the sea. You can find them on cold days this time of year. In the summer they’ve gone to ground in the hills.

A Mini Guide to Sea Room and Lagoon

Here is a social space in Reykjavik that’s not a park, a street, a building or a yard full of old rowan trees and mystery. It’s more mysterious yet. This is what the people of the north of the world call The Sea Room.

And on Snaefellsnes? Yes, there’s one there, too.

And in the far north, too.

Note that the Sea Room has few boundaries. It has a sense of being open, with a free flow out to the open ocean, which it is nonetheless separated from by a sense of space. Compare that to a lagoon in the East.

In comparison to Sea Room, a lagoon is bounded by land. And below. Na, that’s a river mouth in the south.

Nope, a Sea Room is special. You can live there, in a world within the world. So, let’s try it again… Sea Room?

Nope. River mouth. And below, what of it? Sea Room?

Nope, a river flow through a lagoon, with the open Atlantic trying to get in. Now, that’s fun. Ok, what about the view below at Dritvik?

Nope, that’s just the sea. You enter it when you leave the sea room. And below?


Nope, sad to say. That’s a field in Breiðafjörður. This is Iceland. it’s tricky. And below, in Skagafjörður?Yes! You got it! And below, at Buðir?
Atlantic again? Yup. And here’s Dritvik? Is that a Sea Room? No, it’s an ogre and her ogre whale pet in a bay at dusk, in the rain, looking out to sea. But here’s the thing, in Iceland men rowed way out there in little wooden boats and hauled in cod, far from land in storm. They made a room of the sea, a portable one, centred on their boat, just as their island is centred in the sea. That flexibility remains in the country.

It is known now as memory. 

Or is it?

In Iceland, You Can’t Escape Gravity

They call gravity a fell here, or a fall. Often both at the same time.

You can’t escaping falls. The experience of gravity below is an example of what is called a hike. Anything less than this is called a walk. Don’t confuse the two.
Below is a walk. Walks are wet.  But gravity is a compensation! It’s good to keep your eye on it. Practice makes perfect.

In Reykjavik, gravity is still at work. I mean, the pot-smoking graffiti artists of Rome and New York and …? … aren’t issued ladders at customs. As a result, they walk from ground level.

Icelandic workers are better equipped to defy gravity.

 


They’ve been hiking, see. They know about falls. They’re everywhere. You can even fall off a road into the sea here.

Better get in some practice at balance. Off you go!


 

Yes, But is it Nature?

The sheep of Iceland, bless them, have eaten the place down to rock.

The Icelandic government pays farmers to plant trees.On farms no-one lives on anymore. Along a river diverted to a hydroelectric dam one valley over. Sturluflöt

This was the old road to the south. That was a farm to the left. Below the stone. It would support the trees growing on the scree in the back, but farmers are farmers the world over.

þorgerðarstaðir

They just don’t trust trees. Or rivers. Sheep, they like sheep. So they herd trees, They put them out to pasture.And that’s nature in Iceland: a project made out of sheep, government subsidy and resistance, often all at once. Oh, and depopulation. Iceland is an urban country. Rather than being nature, the land is a kind of ruin. Brrr.Everyone, time to go home. You can so farm a city, just not on work days.

That nature stuff is for tourists.