As the frailty of the fence below shows, the Icelandic way of meeting the Earth is either foolish or heroic, or both.
Grótfjall from the Dunes
The Earth is huge, and humans are small, and yet they stand up against each other, body to body. It is hardly an equal relationship… or is it? The fence stands in witness.
Well, forget the tourist pamphlets, that collect old folktales from the 19th century. Those were created in an attempt to sort out folk stories from the many traditions of Icelandic settlers. Truth is, there are no trolls, not as a non-human, humanoid species.
Skriðuklaustur
There is, however, a human ability to centre landscapes in human form. It is this centring, this inseparability from place, that you will find in Iceland, if you wander there outside of books. The secret of trolls is the secret of recognition, because they are the same thing. Many Icelanders today look to New York or London for their mirrors. Not all. You don’t have to, either. A troll is where you find it. You are where you find yourself. Now, recognizing yourself when you see it, ah, now that’s a trick.
A Farm Road in South Iceland
One jolt of hormones lasts centuries here.
Be quick. You have competition.
Bilberries in Seydisfjörður
Look closely now!
Yes, competition.
Iceland’s Secret Bilberry Team
Count the legs. Very secret work!
What, you didn’t think they ate grass, did you? In this rain? The Icelandic summer has to have some perks!
The road to the sky leads through the Earth.
Dawn at Skriðuklaustur
At first you can drive, but then you have to go on foot. You’ll know when you’ve arrived.
Ice contains wisdom, of the year behind and the opening wisdom of the year to come. You can see it in the perennial sunrise and sunset colours of winter, but. April brings brighter tones, while snow storms still take the rest of the world away. It’s breathtaking. Bring your camera. Go East in April.
Leave the crowded south and its tourbusses. The great secret of Iceland is that it’s everywhere on the whole island. You don’t have to go to the crowded places. You will find there a sense of honouring and ritual. Out in the simple places, where no one else goes, you will find your self.
Soon the bird sanctuaries will be off limits for the rest of the year to anyone except birds. Best get your ‘dunes in a distance’ fix now. But do not enter the dunes. You cannot get to the sea and you will get lost. This is a landscape for contemplation only. Please.
Nýagras
And that’s beautiful enough.
What a fine time of year to go East!
Strandarvik
Good Friday Rowan at Skriðuklaustur
May you walk into the Earth and come out with new hands.
Troll rock, lighthouse and radio tower.
Norðausturvegur
Hey, one is bound to work. (Thing is, you never know which one.)
A Farm in Iceland 