Tag Archives: Iceland

Beauty and Loss: Finding Iceland

So many Icelandic men of my father’s generation thought they could stay on the land if they built a nice concrete house to keep their families out of the wind, but they did it the Icelandic way, with salt beach sand, and it fell apart.

Women still come, as the snagged necklet of clear glass beads and fishing line below shows, but, as the snag shows, they leave without these baubles, too.


And that is one of the forces that powers the world.

~

Selstaðir

Preparation is All

Everything catches your eye. The world is not what we expect but what we answer when it calls to us. The two gestures are the same. Preparation is all, even if you don’t know the preparation you have done. When I first travelled to Iceland, we were given an itinerary and sent on our way, and, being curious and easily wowed, kept stopping the car and being late for dinner.

Now I understand that if we hadn’t wanted to be caught, and if we hadn’t been ready to be caught, we would have driven on, and made dinner. Because we stopped, I saw into the heart of the world, and have written two books and am deep into two other manuscripts. And still that lamb dinner calls!

A Grove of Horses in Iceland

It was all forest once, in the whole country, at least by the water. Even here in Hvalfjörður, it was trees. But the trees were cleared to make pastures and to keep the Icelanders warm, and then there were no trees, and so it remains in most of the country. Because of this history…,


… horses are now trees. Stick a pale of hay in the middle of a forest clearcut 1000 years ago, and there you have it, a grove. As I’ve said. before, in this country everyone is an artist.

So, You Want to Go to Iceland, Do You

Going to Iceland. I don’t blame you. It’s beautiful. Gulfoss. The Golden Falls. With its eternal rainbow. What’s not to love?

Well, this, maybe. Hey, but everybody’s as much in love with it as you are. You’re in good company. That’s nice.

That’s not so bad at all, is it. But this?

That’s OK, too. I mean, everyone is safe this way, and that’s good, plus things erode. We don’t want things to erode. Thing is, well… IF … you … turn … around … there … is … this.

Will you go there? Likely not. There are, after all the beautiful falls. Very beautiful. There’s a path.

And you can always go wait for the Geysir up the road. That’s fun. It really is. It’s even more fun to watch the watchers.

Still… IF you turn around (and miss the Geysir) …

Will you go there? The Icelanders hope you won’t. They want you at the Geysir. Ahh, that’s better.

Let’s face it. That’s worth putting your back to the mountains. Or is it?

It’s a tricky dance, to be a traveller in Iceland.