Tag Archives: Iceland

Nationalism in Iceland

A pretty pastoral scene in Hvaljördur, right?

p1400354Saubæjarkirkja

The barren hills are caused by the sheep that make a nation possible here. The birches in the churchyard would have been all over them 1100 years ago. More trees would be desirable, but lamb is already $35 a kilo. That’s a hard practical choice. The church is a symbol of many things, including the parliament of 999-1000 that made Christianity the country’s public religion (without denying private paganism), the loss of nationalism to the Norwegian Crown a half millennium ago, the power of land-owners to collect church tithes, and the cementing of Christian values (and at times oppression) in communities of itinerant labourers, almost serfs, in continual movement around the country. The forest behind the church is part of the late 19th century and early 20th century movement to re-settle the land and reclaim nationalism from Denmark. The long distance transmission line is part of the support network for the American aluminum plant behind me when I made this image. The reservoir that supplies these lines with power drowned some of Iceland’s most beautiful wilderness, yet, arguably, provides the funds that allow Iceland to remain independent. The green field crop represents the heavy industrialization of agriculture which enables a people, in love with the power of American urban values and who have left to land, to eat off the labour of 4500 people. The ditches across the field, for drainage, allow for increased yields for this industrialized agriculture. Everything you see here is a technology for survival. Everything is a carefully calculated choice. Nothing is frivolous. So, yes, if you call that pastoral, this is. Gunnar Gunnarsson would have said it was. I do, too.

The Secret to Iceland’s Football Success

So, you want to play football. Or soccer. Call it what you like, but there are obstacles to overcome.  Take the town of Hellisanður, for example. Just finding a football pitch is a challenge. p1350586

You’re liable to throw a hoof, too.

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Well, no point in crying the blues.  Stop thinking about the volcano. Easy, boys.

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It’s time to roll up the wool sweater and start looking. Football waits for no lava lump.

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Aha!

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Now, that wasn’t so hard, was it. Tucked away out of the wind, with a view from the pulpit.

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On some days, I tell ya, you don’t need an opposing team. You’re playing against 35 metre per second winds off of the North Atlantic and the monsters that throws up onto the shore.

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But, wait, what’s this…

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Elvish fans!

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A crowd, actually.

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Analyzing your every move.
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Every error is mourned naturally, without holding back.p1350622

Every victory is cheered, wildly.p1350621It’s not a game. It’s a world.
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It’s not just played with a ball. It’s multi-dimensional. It knits together the dimensions. It’s shared.

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Just stop thinking about the volcano.

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That’s all.

 

 

 

The Harbour Master of Dritvik

For almost four hundred years, hundreds of men camped at Dritvik, on the extreme west coast of Iceland, for the spring fishery, and set out in tiny wooden boats into the open North Atlantic. On a ferocious, rough coast, this troll sat in the sea and made a safe harbour. For hundreds of years he looked out to them at sea and when the men came home they came in on the beams of his gaze.p1350857

He is still watching, still making the harbour, still waiting, and whatever is out there on the Atlantic is still coming in — just not men, and fish. He’s not alone. Trolls rarely are. They are herdsmen, after all. Turn around slowly. You are being watched.

sheep

 

Folk Dancing in Iceland (It’s not what you think.)

You don’t need an expensive camera in Iceland. The sun is so low to the horizon that the atmosphere becomes your lens.

p1310321What you need to do is to place yourself in its way.

vatnAnd in its focal field.

hollForget the telephoto lens and the filters and your bag of tech. You don’t have time for that.

p1370707And don’t be mesmerized by your journey.

p1310957The sun and the earth and the air and space between them is your journey. p1380099The mountains focus this light too.

p1380192So do you.

cover12What else did you think you were on this earth for?

cover22Ah, the Northern Lights.

P1400548 Well, it doesn’t matter. Iceland will focus you with its lens. p1380121Just wait.

p1370255 Be ready at any moment. This is not your journey.

p1390341This is the planet’s dance with the sun.

p1400187You are this planet dancing.

Respect Iceland

This half-frozen waterfall just above tideline, with its troll and its troll sheep, is not on any tour route and, like most of the beautiful places in Iceland, is not on any map.
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The really beautiful stuff you have to find on your own. When you do, after that effort, you’re not likely to tell anyone where it is, and it wouldn’t matter if you did, because the moment would be past. This is called respect.

Hanging Out With the Winter Swans

This is a waterfall. It is not a swan.p1370712

Ah, but this is a waterfall, too, the same one, in fact, a little later in time, and flowing up against 8500 year old lava, and it is not a swan, either.

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Many days and years of this waterfall are not swans either, but they do lure swans down from the sky, and become filled with their spirit.

p1370756It would be fair to say they were their spirit all along.

p1370751Some things take time, that’s all.